ALEXI FREEMAN

review - AW11 STARDUST

Here’s what fashion writer Jeanette Wyche had to say about our AW11 STARDUST collection on her blog Is Greather Then

Here in the US the sun is finally getting close enough to the equator to warm our frosted bones and we can finally bring out all those wide legged pants and maxi skirts that have excited the fashion crazy since the beginning of last fall. However the Aussies don’t quite have it so good– at least not at this time of the year. While the northern hemisphere spins into warmth, the southern hemisphere is getting ready for a chill with sweaters, long pants, scarves and mittens. So when I talked with Australian designer Alexi Freeman we concentrated on his fall 2011 collection with the dreamy name of Stardust. Upon first glance Stardust begins to tell the story of the overly optimistic starlet, who just arrived in Hollywood from the small town she has never left before, positive that she will become a star. She dons too much make up and a tight dress covered in shimmer, trying to look as worldly as possible. However the pieces Freeman created do possess that sophistication the young starlet lacks. A look closer brings me to outer space, I’m surrounded by stars. Freeman utilizes two-toned sequins to emulate the points of light sparkling in the night sky. Futuristic tees and Freeman’s white mesh body suit with contrasting foil strips might make the perfect uniform for an ultra chic female space ranger from the year 2475. The collection spans past and future and fights with itself about where it wants to be. Its bat wing sleeves and geometric v-shape prints demand the 1980s, while the elegance of high waist pencil skirts and a-line hems politely say 1940s and beyond. All of this in combination with Freeman’s successful drape work and subtle color blocking place Stardust perfectly in today. Despite the far reaching influencing the collection fits together with utmost skill. When we talked via email the designer listed among his many inspirations, ”the 1920s, art deco, geometric shapes, rock and roll, outer space, [and] femininity.” These come from various ends of the spectrum, but Freeman triumphs by seamlessly melding these separate facets into a cohesive design story. He does a similar thing with the materials he works with. For Stardust elements such as two tone sequins cover a classic trench in bright blue or black and silver. Chic and sophisticated draping seen in dresses and blouses sit atop diagonally striped leggings and skirts. In the designer’s own words, Stardust is “an investigation of geometric patterning, juxtaposed with glamour, with a bit of an outer space/futurist twist.” The wide range Stardust offers lends itself to its wear-ability as well. Designed so that the numerous pieces of the collection can be interchanged amongst themselves and with other pieceskeeps the target audience-the fashion forward woman of today-in mind. Freeman has included pieces perfect to make an evening sparkle or simply to add an element of adventure to an everyday look. If all that wasn’t enough, Stardust boasts one more feature: custom designed accessories accent the collection. The baubles are born from a collaboration with jewelry designer Tessa Blazey. Under the label Alexi + Tessa the pair work together to create accessories which support the design philosophy of the Alexi Freeman Label. For Stardust the pieces are geometric earrings, necklaces, rings, and bracelets keeping with the black, white, and dark blues of the collection and are fashioned from marcasite, oxidized sterling silver, and laser cut acrylic. Freeman, like many of his fashion cohorts began his career as a visual artist. His work was based primarily in dry point etched prints, drawings, and paintings. As he continued to work in fine art he started to see the beginnings of could-be fashion design within his work. Taking things a step further the designer produced a series of prints and garments that saw great success at galleries and boutiques in Hobart, Melbourne, Sydney, and New York. This made his next steps, bringing these ideas to life as actual garments and launching his eponymous label, less of a leap of faith and more of a natural progression. Freeman admires the awe-inspiring works of the late Alexander McQueen as well as that of Martin Margiela. As far as physical materials Freeman says, “I love the handle and intrinsic drape of natural materials like merino, silk, leather and cashmere. But there are also incredible man made fibers out there, for example the strength of polyester, or the elasticity of lycra. [It] really depends on what qualities I need for a particular piece.” Alexi Freeman the label was established in 2006 and aims high with its product. The label aims to suit the needs of the modern woman who still craves classic elements of the past. It remains versatile while keeping comfort in mind but, “if it doesn’t make you feel sexy, then why even bother?” These clothes keep in mind the doe-eyed starlet, futuristic space agent, and the woman who woke up this morning looking for clothes that are modern and relevant, but also thought provoking and as the designer explains, “don’t take themselves too seriously.” This collection and others are available in stores in Australia, New Zealand, and Russia.